American Gem Society

Gemstones

Guidelines to purchasing colored gemstones

Gemstones come in every color of the spectrum. Did you know only 90 to 100 of the 3,000 minerals are considered gemstones? You may also be surprised to know that one gem may have many different hues. Did you know that sapphire comes not only in blue, but also yellow, pink and a range of other colors? If you are shopping for a particular color or hue, you may have several choices, some very affordable. Price is dictated by rarity, durability and popularity.

  • Color & Value

    When evaluating the value of a gemstone, hue, tone and saturation are all important. Brighter, more vivid colors with a medium tone are the most sought after. A color you may find the most beautiful may not be the most sought after, but individual taste and preference play an important role in selection.

  • Gems & Light

    The color of most gems is affected by different light sources. Some gems look best under incandescent light while others appear more beautiful under fluorescent lighting. You should always look at a gem you are considering in different lights, especially the light you plan to wear it in most.

  • Gem Clarity

    Another important factor in judging gemstone value is clarity: freedom from the tiny internal characteristics known as inclusions. Many gems have inclusions. Generally, the more rare, and therefore more valuable gems are those with very few small inclusions or inclusions not visible to the naked eye. As unusual as it may sound, sometimes inclusions add to the value of a gemstone, in the case of cat’s-eye chrysoberyl and star sapphires. Many gemstones, including emerald and red tourmaline, almost always have visible inclusions so a lack of clarity detracts less from their value. Be sure that inclusions are not located in a corner or on an edge where they might reduce durability.

  • Rarity & Carat Weight

    Gems are sold by weight, not by size. The measurement used is the carat, which is one-fifth of a gram. Some gems rarely occur in large sizes (like emerald, ruby and sapphire) while others are more available in large sizes (such as amethyst, citrine and blue topaz). You may expect to pay more per carat for emerald or ruby and less per carat for the ones more commonly found in larger sizes. That being said, you may have an emerald and ruby that appear to be the same size but differ in carat weight. This is because each gem is a different mineral with a different density. The difference in density can be used to identify gems.

  • Cut & Beauty

    When we talk about cut, we’re referring to two different things: the three-dimensional shape in which the gemstone is fashioned (round brilliant, oval, cabochon, and emerald cut are the most common shapes for faceted stones) and the quality of the cutting. Cut is important in bringing out the best color and light return. It is the skilled hand of the gem cutter that unleashes their brilliance and beauty. Each gem handles light differently due to the unique optical properties of its crystal structure. Examine the colored stone for symmetry and the amount of light that returns back to your eye from the entire surface, with no dark or washed out areas.

  • Synthetics & Simulants

    Natural gemstones have been formed in nature and fashioned and/or treated by man. Synthetic gemstones are created in the laboratory. They have the same physical, optical and chemical composition as their natural gemstone counterpart. Simulant is a gem material (natural or man made) that is used to look like a natural gemstone. Some gem materials are actually constructed of two or more substances. They are known as Assembled.